Caring for your House Rabbit

Rabbits make intelligent, quiet, gentle and affectionate house pets. They require minimal space, can be litter box trained, and are generally hardy and easy to care for. The average life span of a rabbit is 7 to 10 years with records of up to 25 years of age being reported. The following information is designed to help you take the best possible care of your pet and enjoy a happy, healthy life together.

DIET

Hay - HAY IS THE MOST IMPORTANT PART OF THE HOUSE RABBIT DIET. HAY SHOULD BE PROVIDED AT ALL TIMES IN YOUR PET'S CAGE. Hay provides essential indigestible fiber, which keeps the digestive tract working normally, and also a variety of other nutrients needed for the good health of your rabbit. The best type of hay for pet rabbits is GRASS hay which can include timothy, prairie, meadow, oat, and Bermuda , and which is often sold as "mixed grass hay" containing several of these types. Feeding alfalfa hay is discouraged due to its higher calorie and calcium content, however, if grass hay is not available, alfalfa is better than no hay at all. Also, loose hay is preferred over hay cubes (but for clients with allergies to loose hay, the cubes can be an alternative and are better than no hay). You can check with your local pet stores, feed stores; and horse barns for sources of grass hay, and if you have several rabbits you may want to buy a whole bale.

Feeding hay has other health benefits besides keeping the digestive tract in good shape. Because hay is more abrasive and takes longer to break down by chewing than a pellet (which is made of compressed fine particles) there is tremendous benefit to the teeth. The teeth grow throughout a rabbit's life and overgrown molars and incisors can be a problem if the rabbit does not have enough abrasive material to chew on. Also, with the additional time spent chewing on the hay and the "full feeling" to the stomach which hay provides, the rabbit will spend less time chewing on other objects in the house or chewing on their own or their cage-mates fur ("barbering", a common problem).

Fresh Greens - Fresh greens are the SECOND MOST IMPORTANT PART of the house rabbit's diet and should be given daily. Rabbits in the wild eat a lot of tough, fibrous plants. Their digestive tract functions best when it has a high level of fiber, which helps to maintain the normal intestinal motility.

If your rabbit has never eaten green foods before, then it is best to establish it on hay first. If your rabbit is already eating hay, then there is generally no problem starting with fresh green foods no matter what the age of your pet. The "danger" that feeding green foods to rabbits will give them diarrhea (as stated in many older books on rabbits) is not true in rabbits that are eating healthy diets based on hay. The problems in the past were with rabbits that were on a diet of strictly pellets, resulting in an abnormally sluggish movement of the intestinal tract. When greens were suddenly introduced to these rabbits, they developed soft stool or diarrhea because their sluggish intestines could not handle the higher fiber and fluid content of the greens. If your rabbit is already eating a diet based on hay (which it should be), the intestine is in good shape and adding greens will not cause a problem. There are occasionally certain greens that cause a harmless softer stool (notoriously parsley) in some rabbits, and these can be eliminated from the diet if this is the case.

Feed a MINIMUM OF 3 DIFFERENT LEAFY GREEN FOODS DAILY. The greater variety you can feed, the better, as this gives the rabbit the most nutritional value, as well as different tastes and textures of food to enjoy. Some examples of fresh greens you can feed your pet: carrot tops, beet tops, dandelion greens and flowers (excellent, as long as no pesticides), kale, collard greens, escarole, romaine lettuce, (don't give light colored leaf lettuce or iceberg lettuce), endive, green, red or yellow peppers, Swiss chard, parsley, clover, cabbage, broccoli, carrot, pea pods, brussel sprouts, basil, wheat grass, raddichio, bok choy and escarole. The MINIMUM amount of leafy foods that should be given daily is about 1 tightly packed cup per 4 pounds of body weight. YOU SHOULD END UP FEEDING AT LEAST A LOOSE PILE OF GREENS ABOUT THE SIZE OF YOUR RABBIT TWICE A DAY . Once your pet is established on hay and greens you can feed essentially unlimited amounts of these foods without worrying about overfeeding. Because fresh vegetables are not as concentrated in nutrients pound per pound as the dry hay, it is important to feed lots of hay in addition to fresh greens to maintain your rabbit's body weight.

Pellets – PELLETS ARE THE LEAST IMPORTANT PART OF THE HOUSE RABBIT'S DIET. Commercial rabbit pellets are high in calories, low in volume and require little chewing, which is a problem for an animal such as a rabbit that was designed to eat large volumes of tough, high fiber foods in its natural diet. Alfalfa-based rabbit pellets were originally designed for the rapid growth of production or laboratory rabbits that were not intended to live out their full life span. These pellets contain high concentrations of carbohydrates, protein, fat and calcium, and very low levels of fiber. Feeding a diet of mainly pellets to the pet house rabbit will unfortunately lead to problems such as obesity, liver disease, chronic soft stools and kidney disease. In many cases your veterinarian may recommend feeding NO PELLETS at all, particularly to adult rabbits. Rabbits can obtain all the nutrients necessary from hay and fresh foods, as they are very efficient at making their own vitamins and minerals through the recycling of cecotropes, which they produce from their hind gut, eat, and redigest (see section on "night droppings"). Complete removal of pellets from the diet is often the treatment for overweight rabbits that need to lose weight or for rabbits with chronic soft stools. Many rabbits do not receive pellets at all for most of their life and do just fine.

If you choose or are advised to use pellets in the diet, use a good quality rabbit pellet fed only in limited amounts. The only exception is does nursing babies or rabbits under six months of age that are still growing rapidly and can be fed free choice pellets. The following chart shows maximum daily amounts to be fed to your rabbit. DO NOT REFILL THE BOWL even if the pellets are all eaten before the next day. Your rabbit can have as much hay and fresh greens as it wants, and so will not have to go hungry. OVERFEEDING OF PELLETS IS THE NUMBER ONE CAUSE OF HEALTH PROBLEMS in pet rabbits.

2-4 Lb. of body weight - 1/8 cup daily 8-10 Lb. of body weight - 1/2 cup daily

5-7 Lb. of body weight - 1/4 cup daily 11-25 Lb. of body weight - 3/4 cup daily

Treat Foods – OK to give to your rabbit but only in small amounts - a total (of combined foods) amount of 2 tablespoons per 2 lbs. of body weight daily: strawberries, papaya, pineapple, apple, pear, melon, raspberries, blueberries, apple, pear, mango, peach, pear, or tomato. Bananas and grapes can be fed only as a very occasional treat.

DON'T GIVE ANY OF THE FOLLOWING FOODS ROUTINELY BECAUSE OF THEIR POTENTIAL FOR CAUSING INTESTINAL UPSET AND OBESITY: Salty or sugary snacks, nuts, chocolate, breakfast cereals, legumes (peas and beans) and other grains (including oats, corn, wheat, and any type of bread).

Water – Should always be available and should be changed daily, as a dirty water container is a breeding ground for bacteria that can cause disease. The container can be either a water bottle or heavy bowl that is weighted or secured to the side of the cage so that it does not tip over. Avoid the use of water medications or other additives because your pet may not drink sufficient quantities of water if the taste is altered. Note that rabbits that are eating a large portion of greens in the diet get most of their fluid requirements from these foods and will drink very little additional water.

Vitamins - Vitamin supplements are NOT NECESSARY in a healthy rabbit on a good diet. In fact, indiscriminate use of vitamins may lead to over-dosage and serious disease. Vitamins added to the water may also discourage adequate water consumption as well as cause more rapid bacterial growth in the water. Also, rabbits do not generally need supplements such as papaya tablets, pineapple juice, or laxatives, which in the past were thought to prevent build-up of hair in the GI tract. Although they may not hurt, no evidence has shown that any of these products actually dissolve hair at all, and the most important thing your rabbit needs to maintain GI health is a good high fiber diet with lots of hay and fresh greens. Use additional supplements such as these only under the supervision of your veterinarian.

Salt or Mineral Block – Not necessary for the house pet on the described diet.

Night Droppings (Cecotropes) - It may seem strange to list this as a part of' the diet, but these "special droppings" known as cecotropes, are an essential part of your pet's nutrition. During certain times of the day, usually about 4-6 hours after eating, you may observe your pet licking his anal area and actually eating some of the droppings in the process. These are cecotropes.

Cecotropes are softer, greener, and have a stronger odor than the normal hard, dry, round waste droppings, and they come directly from the cecum, which is the part of the digestive system where fermentation of food takes place. In the cecum the digestible portion of the diet is broken down by bacteria, which then produce fatty acids, animo-acids (proteins), vitamins and minerals. Most of these nutrients are kept inside the bacteria, however, which are excreted in the cecotropes, which then must be consumed by the rabbit to be utilized. After eating these nutrition rich droppings, your rabbit will re-digest the material and extract all the necessary nutrients. This habit may appear distasteful to us, but it is normal and important for your pet. In this way the rabbit can survive in the wild on food on which other animals might not be able to thrive.

Occasionally a rabbit will drop these cecal pellets along with the waste pellets instead of eating them, especially if the diet contains excessive amounts of protein or energy. Some rabbits leave excessive amounts of cecotropes in the cage because they can't reach the anal area for reasons such as obesity, excessive flaps of skin, spinal disease, or painful abdomen. A diet low in fiber or too high in energy may also lead to a chronic and persistent production of cecotropes that are too soft to be eaten and that will be found left in the cage. Your rabbit needs to be checked by a veterinarian if you are continually finding excessive amounts of cecotropes in the cage.

HOUSING

Cage – A metal cage can be used with either a solid floor or a wire flooring of 14 gauge wire (1" x ½" square openings). The size of the cage should be at least 24" x 24" x 18" high for small and medium breeds and 36" x 36" x 24" high for large breeds. A SOLID FLOORED AREA is important to prevent sore hocks and to provide an area for resting. A towel, piece of carpeting, or wood can be used for this, as can a piece of synthetic fleece, which is ideal because if the rabbit chews on it, there are no long strands of fabric to get caught in the GI tract. IT IS VERY IMPORTANT FOR A CAGE TO BE USED WITH SUFFICIENT AIR CIRCULATION, such as a wire cage and NOT an aquarium or solid walled cage, because this helps reduce the incidence of respiratory disease and overheating. The best thing to use as a cage substrate if you use one is plain newspaper, and not wood chips of any kind (especially cedar but not pine either), which have been linked to increased incidence of respiratory problems. Recycled newspaper pellets sold as cat litter also work well as a substrate, (as well as in the rabbit's litter box, as it is not dusty like cat litter).

It is highly recommended that rabbits not be kept in the cage all the time. Rabbits that are always caged run a higher risk of foot, intestinal, and urinary disease, as well as obesity due to lack of exercise. Also, letting your rabbit out often will increase your enjoyment of your pet by allowing you to discover his personality, and to interact with him. Rabbits that sit in a cage all day are thought to be "boring" to owners who don't know any better. An excellent set-up is to have a cage as "home-base" surrounded by a dog exercise pen for a place to roam. These pens can be taken apart and moved to make the pen area any size or shape desired. A height of at least 3 feet is required for most rabbits, and some larger breeds may require 4-foot high pens. The pen will keep the rabbit out of trouble from chewing on electrical cords or furniture, and can be assembled wherever you want to contain your rabbit, even outdoors. You can even purchase a solid piece of material to cover the floor of the pen to protect your carpet and to make it easy to clean up "accidents". IF YOU ARE GOING TO LET YOUR RABBIT ROAM THE HOUSE, be sure to do so only under supervision, and be sure to "BUNNY-PROOF" YOUR HOUSE first! Eliminate any areas your pet can get trapped or escape from, electrical cords which can be chewed, carpeting which rabbits like to dig up, and any toxic materials such as rodent poisons or plants that your pet could get into.

Rabbits are very social animals, and will be MUCH HAPPIER IF KEPT INSIDE THE HOUSE WITH YOU INSTEAD OF ALONE OUTSIDE. If you must cage your rabbit outside, be sure to interact with it on a regular basis out of the cage, and be sure the rabbit has adequate protection from the weather and heat. Rabbits are susceptible to heat stroke if not provided sufficient shade and water. Be very sure that the cage is escape-proof and impenetrable to predators, and always bring the rabbit inside at night to protect from attacks.

Litter Box – Rabbits can be litter box trained relatively easily. Make sure the sides of the box are low enough so your pet can get in and out easily. The best choices for litter are pelleted paper litters or other types of organic products, since these are non-toxic and digestible if eaten, as opposed to shavings or clay litter, which can cause problems if ingested. Some examples of safe litter are Care Fresh, Yesterday's News (both paper products), and Critter Country (pelleted wheat grass). Initially, keep your pet in a small area, either in a cage or a blocked-off section of the room and place a litter box in a corner (ideally a corner your pet has already used for the bathroom It is often helpful to put some of the rabbit's droppings in the box, and some people have also found it useful to put some hay in the box to encourage defecation there, since rabbits usually pass feces while eating. You can reward your pet with one of his favorite treat foods when he has used the box successfully. Do not punish your pet for not using the box, and don't worry if your rabbit likes to sit in the litter box or sleep there. This is quite common and isn't a problem as long as the box is cleaned frequently. Also, spaying or neutering your rabbit will reduce marking behaviors and will increase chances of litter box usage. Once your pet is using the litter box, let him in to one additional room at a time (you may need to train him separately for each room) , and provide at least one litter box per room. Note: normal urine color of a pet rabbit can vary from light yellow to dark orange in color, and from clear to almost chalky and opaque, depending on the rabbit's diet and emotional state. This is important to distinguish from true blood in the urine, which signifies a medical problem, and your veterinarian can help you tell the difference.

Temperature – Rabbits need to be kept in the COOLEST and LEAST HUMID part of the house. Rabbits kept in warm, humid environments with poor air circulation have a dramatic increase in incidence of respiratory disease. Damp basements are one of the worst areas to keep your pet. The optimum temperature range for a rabbit is 60-70 degrees F. When the temperature reaches the upper 80's and beyond, especially if the humidity is high, there is significant chance of heat stroke. On very hot days, if no air conditioning is available, place a plastic jug filled with frozen water in your rabbit's cage. Make sure plenty of fresh, cool water is available, and make sure, if the cage is outdoors, that part of the cage is shaded from the sun. If you notice your pet showing signs of heat stress, such as panting or collapse, try to cool your pet down by holding ice to the ears, or wetting the rabbit down with cool water, and seek veterinary attention immediately. Healthy adult rabbits can tolerate gradually cooling temperatures down to 30 degrees F if proper shelter is provided from wind and rain. Make sure they have adequate warm straw bedding and access to fresh, unfrozen water daily.

Environmental Enrichment – When setting up your rabbit's cage, remember that rabbits are intelligent, inquisitive, social, playful animals. Keep your rabbit in an area where your pet can participate in the daily routine of the family, but not where he will feel too vulnerable to other pets in the household. A larger cage is always better, with different areas or levels for the rabbit to access, as this most closely simulates the burrows used in their natural environment. Make sure there is also a secure hiding area where your rabbit feels safe. Items for gnawing and chewing, such as hay, wood, cardboard, or even dog bones should always be provided, to satisfy this insatiable need. Most rabbits thoroughly enjoy toys also, whether dog or cat toys, or improvised objects from around the house. Get to know your rabbit to find out what kinds of things he finds interesting, and provide a safe version as a toy in his cage. Many rabbits will carry objects around, or even throw and chase balls or other objects, and get a great deal of pleasure as well as exercise this way. MAKE SURE THAT YOUR RABBIT IS NOT INGESTING ANY PART OF THE TOYS. Pieces of toys such as stuffed animals, or small objects such as balls can be swallowed and cause serious stomach or intestinal problems, usually requiring surgery. If there is any doubt, only allow use of a toy under observation and do not leave it in the cage.

Cagemates – Rabbits are very social and in their natural environment live in large groups with intricate social hierarchies. This doesn't mean that it is cruel to keep a single rabbit, as long as you provide companionship and interaction on a regular basis. If you do decide to get another rabbit as a companion for your pet, there are several things to consider. ADULT RABBITS WHO DO NOT KNOW EACH OTHER CAN FIGHT VICIOUSLY AND EVEN KILL EACH OTHER. Mature intact females can be even more territorial and aggressive than males. First, make sure all rabbits in the household have been spayed or neutered (more on this later) as this greatly reduces hormonal and territorial aggression in both males and females. Second, introduce the rabbits slowly on neutral territory, and make sure they get along before leaving them together unsupervised or caging them together. Once you see the rabbits routinely laying next to each other throughout the day, they probably can be caged together safely. Realize that some rabbits may play well together and even like each other, but never get along well enough to be caged together, needing their own space to sleep and eat. Finally, if you do cage more than one rabbit together, provide a large cage with multiple separate areas so they can escape from each other if needed. If you take the time to properly introduce your rabbits, they can easily become lifelong friends who are quite inseparable.

HANDLING

THE IMPORTANT THING TO REMEMBER WHEN PICKING UP A RABBIT IS TO ALWAYS SUPPORT THE HIND LEGS. Rabbits have a very lightweight skeleton and very strong, powerful hind legs, and if they are startled and kick out into the air with their hind legs, they can easily break their back due to this force. Unfortunately, when this happens, paralysis is almost always permanent and usually requires euthanasia of the pet. The best idea is to work with your rabbit near the floor when first learning to handle your pet so if he jumps from your arms he won't have far to go. One good method for holding a rabbit is to gently wrap him in a towel so he feels secure, while supporting the hind legs with your other hand. You can also gently grasp the loose skin over the shoulders while picking up your pet, but don't hold onto the sensitive ears ("EARS ARE NOT HANDLES")! Handle your rabbit often so he becomes used to it and enjoys it, and stays tame and affectionate. This also makes it easier and less stressful when medical attention becomes necessary.

PREVENTIVE MEDICINE

Annual Exam - ALL PET RABBITS SHOULD HAVE AN ANNUAL PHYSICAL EXAM AND CHECK UP by a veterinarian EXPERIENCED in dealing with rabbits. New rabbits should be quarantined from existing pets at least until evaluated by a qualified veterinarian. This is important to catch impending health problems before they become too serious, since rabbits, like all prey animals, tend to attempt to hide their signs of illness. The veterinarian can go over appropriate diet and housing recommendations (this information is changing constantly as new facts are discovered by leaders in the field), check for overgrown nails and teeth and trim if needed, record an accurate weight for your pet (important to detect loss or gains not noticed by the owner), evaluate the heart, lungs, eyes, ears, GI, and urinary systems for early signs of problems, and develop a strong relationship with both you and your rabbit under relaxed circumstances while your pet is happy and healthy. This helps things go much more smoothly and quickly should there be a medical emergency, and increases your pet's chances of survival in such a crisis. Your veterinarian can also screen your rabbit for Pasturellosis (a serious and very contagious respiratory disease) and perform periodic routine bloodwork to evaluate function of the liver, kidneys, and other body systems (especially important as your rabbit gets older, or over 3 years of age).

Grooming - Recommendations that will be made by your vet include regular nail trimming, either at home or at the veterinarian's office, at least once a month. Rabbits living in cages or indoors do not wear down their nails naturally, and overgrown nails can get caught in crevices in the cage causing the rabbit to injure himself. If the rabbit panics when his nail is caught, the result can be a broken leg, broken back, fatal bleeding, or heat exhaustion. Keeping the nails properly trimmed is an easy form of prevention. (Note: declawing is not a humane option for rabbits).

Keeping your rabbit's teeth in proper condition is also important. All rabbit teeth are open-rooted and grow continuously throughout their lives. The teeth must be constantly worn down during normal eating behavior. Wooden toys should also be provided for gnawing to aid in wearing down teeth. The teeth are worn down not only on the food items, but on each other. If the teeth are not lined up properly or if the diet does not provide sufficient opportunities for chewing, then they do not get worn down properly, resulting in overgrowth. Either or both the front teeth (incisors) and back teeth (molars) may develop a variety of problems. Teeth can grow so long that they penetrate the gums, cheeks, or tongue, and roots can grow so long that they penetrate the jawbone. These problems can go unnoticed by the owner until the rabbit begins to drool excessively or is unable to eat. Because of their position far back in the mouth, problems with the molars are especially hard to detect without a specialized instrument your veterinarian will use to examine them and to trim them as needed. Rabbits with serious malocclusion problems will need to have their teeth checked by a veterinarian every six to eight weeks. Do not try to trim your rabbit's teeth at home – most rabbits require general anesthesia for dental examinations and repair work.

Brushing your rabbit regularly is a good idea if it is long-haired. This helps prevent mats from forming and trapping moisture near the skin, which can lead to skin infections and even maggot infestations in outdoor rabbits. In most cases, you do not need to worry about your rabbit getting "hairballs" as this is really not a condition caused by accumulation of hair at all, but rather GI stasis due to a poor, low fiber diet. If your rabbit is on a good diet of hay and fresh greens with minimal pellets and carbohydrate snacks, then ingestion of hair during normal grooming will NOT cause a problem. Interacting with your rabbit by grooming also helps you to observe his body condition (weight and muscling), and to notice any wounds or infections. Especially check the underside of the hocks for signs of ulceration if the rabbit is kept on a wire floored cage, and check the ears and eyes for signs of discharge or infection. If any problems are noted, DON'T try to treat these ailments at home, as MANY COMMON MEDICATIONS AND ANTIBIOTICS ARE FATAL TO RABBITS. Instead, see your veterinarian as soon as possible.

Spaying/Neutering - Your vet will also recommend spaying or neutering your pet rabbit. Elective surgery is more common now in pet rabbits than it used to be. Anesthesia in rabbits is much safer than in the past. FEMALE RABBITS THAT ARE NOT SPAYED RUN A HIGH RISK OF A DEADLY UTERINE CANCER known as adenocarcinoma. These tumors are very aggressive and malignant, and once diagnosed, are nearly impossible to treat as they have already spread throughout the body. Spaying your female rabbit between the ages of 5 months and 2 years will prevent this type of cancer, as well as prevent breast cancer, pyometra (severe uterine infection), uterine aneurysm (life-threatening bleeding), and continual "heat cycling" and false pregnancies, with associated aggressive behaviors. ALL FEMALE RABBITS NOT INTENDED FOR BREEDING SHOULD BE SPAYED BEFORE 2 YEARS OF AGE

Male rabbits may develop many behavioral problems upon reaching sexual maturity. They can become extremely aggressive and territorial, and start biting and spraying urine to mark their territory. The urine will develop a strong odor due to the influence of male hormones, and may stain the rabbit's fur. Adult males may start attacking other rabbits, especially other males, leading to serious bite wounds and even death. Intact adult male rabbits should NEVER be housed with other male rabbits due to this danger. The best solution to these behavioral problems is neutering the male rabbit, which can be done anytime after 4 months of age. Neutering should also be considered if males and females are to be housed together, as unexpected offspring are almost CERTAIN to result once the rabbits are over 4-5 months of age if they are still kept in the same cage (even if they are siblings).

When to see the vet – When a rabbit stops eating, something serious is usually wrong somewhere. LOSS OF APPETITE IN A RABBIT ACTING NORMALLY SHOULD BE SEEN BY A VET WITHIN 48 HOURS. Rabbits rapidly develop a serious liver condition (known as hepatic lipidosis) when they go without eating that can quickly become irreversible and fatal if not caught in time. LOSS OF APPETITE ACCOMPANIED BY SEVERE DEPRESSION SHOULD BE CONSIDERED A MEDICAL EMERGENCY, especially if no stools are being produced, as this is the classic sign of a rabbit with GI stasis or GI obstruction. The gastrointestinal tract of a rabbit is a fairly sensitive system, and any problem that is noticed should be treated promptly and not "wait to see if it goes away" (it almost always WON'T self-resolve in a rabbit).

Other signs that your rabbit may exhibit that warrant a trip to your veterinarian include excessive drooling, trouble chewing food, weight loss, any abnormal lumps or swellings, any eye, ear, or nasal discharge, lethargy, depression, diarrhea or abnormal stools, head tilt, loss of balance, labored breathing, blood-tinged urine, pain on urination, or any other abnormal behavior you may witness. If you are worried about your rabbit for some reason, it is always better to be safe and schedule a trip to the veterinarian than to ignore the problem and be sorry later.

Recommended reading: The House Rabbit Handbook , or contact the House Rabbit Society, 1615 Encinal Ave., Alameda, CA, 94501 to receive the their publication the House Rabbit Journal. Also visit their web site at http://www.rabbit.org .

Portions adapted with permission from an article by Susan A. Brown, D.V.M., Midwest Bird and Exotic Animal Hospital , 1923 S. Mannheim Rd. , Westchester , IL , 60154 , and from an article by Nancy A. Anderson, D.V.M., of The Ohio State University, School of Veterinary Medicine , Columbus , OH .