Are you experiencing a behavior problem with your pet? Does your dog bark endlessly? Is your cat urinating outside the litter box? Is your bird feather-picking himself bald? Many behavior problems can be addressed with positive results. Animal Care Unlimited offers behavior consultations for dogs, cats, and birds. If you are experiencing a problem with your pet, please call us at (614) 766-2317 to set up a behavior consultation.

How to Choose the Perfect Puppy

After you have decided to get a puppy, many things must be taken into consideration before choosing a breed. The single most important element in selecting a dog is family composition. Choose a breed that matches your particular lifestyle and environment. The best breed of dog for a family depends on the ages of the people involved, the assertiveness of the owners, and what the owners expect from the dog. Some factors to consider are:

-Intended use of the puppy?

-Is the puppy going to be an indoor or outdoor dog?

-How much time are you going to have to work with the puppy?

-Where will the puppy be kept when you are away?

-How much grooming will the dog need?

For example: when determining what size of dog you want, consider the breed's general activity level more than size, as this is a better indicator of how much exercise the dog will need. When deciding on an indoor vs. outdoor dog, consider traits such as tendency toward excessive barking/destructiveness, hair shedding, and odor.

There are thirteen behavioral characteristics to look for when deciding on a dog breed, based on the book The Perfect Puppy—How to choose your dog by its behavior, by Benjamin Hart, DVM. They are ranked from the most predictable characteristics to the least predictable characteristics: (note: #11-13 have low predictive values and should be considered last).

1. Excitability: how easily a dog comes alive or is set off by a stimulus.

2. General activity: how much a dog runs or moves about without being stimulated.

3. Snapping at children

4. Excessive barking

5. Playfulness

6. Ease of obedience training

7. Watchdog barking

8. Aggression towards other dogs

9. Dominance over owner

10. Territorial defense

11. Demand for affection

12. Destructiveness

13. Ease of housebreaking

After considering everything above, it should be easier for you to choose

That perfect puppy. If you have any further questions, feel free to contact Dr. Dunlevy or Vikki at Animal Care Unlimited, (614) 766-2317.

Feline Scratching and Laser Declawing

Why do cats scratch?  

Scratching is a perfectly normal feline behavior. Although scratching does serve to shorten and condition the claws, the primary reasons that cats scratch are to mark their territory and to stretch. Cats may also threaten or play with a swipe of their paws.

For cats that live primarily outdoors, scratching is seldom a problem for the owners. Scratching is usually directed at prominent objects such as tree trunks and fence posts. Play swatting with other cats seldom leads to injuries because cats have a fairly thick skin and coat for protection. When play does get a little rough, most cats are pretty good at sorting things out between themselves. Occasionally, rough play or territorial fighting does lead to injuries or abscesses that would require veterinary care.

Cats that live primarily or exclusively indoors may run into disfavor with their owners when they begin to scratch furniture, walls, or doors, or when they use their claws to climb up, or hang from the drapes. Claws can also cause injuries to people when the cats are overly playful or don't like a particular type of handling or restraint. With a good understanding of cat behavior and a little bit of effort, it should be possible to prevent or avoid most clawing problems, even for those cats that live exclusively indoors.

Cats that go outdoors may be content to scratch when outside, and leave the walls and furniture intact when indoors. Cats that spend most of their time indoors, however, will usually require an area for indoor scratching, climbing, and play.

How can I stop my cat from scratching? 

It is impractical and unfair to expect cats to stop scratching entirely. Cats that go outside may be content to do all their scratching outdoors, but the urge may still arise when the cat comes back indoors. Cats that spend all their time indoors will of course, need some outlet for their scratching and marking behaviors, so don't be surprised if you come home to objects strewn all over the floor, scratches on your furniture, and your cat playfully climbing or dangling from your drapes. Therefore, while it may not be possible to stop a cat from scratching, it should be possible to direct the scratching, climbing and play to appropriate areas indoors. Building or designing a scratching post, providing appropriate play toys, and keeping the cat away from potential problem areas will usually be adequate to deal with most scratching problems.

How do I design a scratching area for my cat? 

Since cats use their scratching posts for marking and stretching, posts should be set up in prominent areas, with at least one close to the cat's sleeping quarters. The post should be tall enough for the cat to scratch while standing on hind legs with the forelegs extended and sturdy enough so that it does not topple when scratched. Some cats prefer a scratching post with a corner so that two sides can be scratched at once while some other cats prefer a horizontal scratching post.

Special consideration should be given to the surface texture of the post. Commercial posts are often covered with tightly woven material for durability, but many cats prefer a loosely woven material where the claws can hook and tear during scratching. Remember that scratching is also a marking behavior and cats want to leave a visual mark. Carpet may be an acceptable covering, but it should be combed first to make certain that there are no tight loops. Some cats prefer sisal, a piece of material from an old chair, or even bare wood for scratching. Be certain to use a material that appeals to your cat.

How can I get my cat to use its post? 

A good way to get the cat to approach and use the post is to turn the scratching area into an interesting and desirable play center. Perches to climb on, space to climb into, and toys mounted on ropes or springs are highly appealing to most cats. Placing a few play toys, cardboard boxes, catnip treats, or even the food bowl in the area should help to keep the cat occupied. Sometimes rubbing the post with tuna oil will increase its attractiveness. Food rewards can also be given if the owner observes the cat scratching at its post. Products have been designed to reward the cat automatically by dispensing food rewards each time the cat scratches. It may also be helpful to take the cat to the post, gently rub its paws along the post in a scratching motion, and give it a food reward. This technique should not be attempted, however, if it causes any fear or anxiety. Placement is important when trying to entice your cat to use a scratching post. Because scratching is also a marking behavior, most cats prefer to use a post that is placed in a prominent location. It may be necessary to place the post in the center of a room or near furniture that the cat was trying to scratch until the cat reliably uses it and then move it to a less obtrusive location. For some cats, multiple posts in several locations will be necessary.

What can I do if the cat continues to scratch my furniture?

 Despite the best of plans and the finest of scratching posts, some cats may continue to scratch or climb in inappropriate areas. At this point, a little time, effort, and ingenuity might be needed. The first thing to consider is partial confinement or "cat-proofing" your home when you are not around to supervise. If the problem occurs in a few rooms, consider making them "out of bounds" by closing off a few doors or by using childproofing techniques, such as child locks or barricades. The cat may even have to be kept in a single room that has been effectively cat-proofed, whenever the owner cannot supervise. Of course, the cat's scratching post, play center, toys, and litter box should be located in this cat-proof room.

If cat-proofing is not possible, or the cat continues to use one or two pieces of furniture, you might want to consider moving the furniture, or placing a scratching post directly in front of the furniture that is being scratched. Take a good look at the surfaces of the scratched furniture and ensure that the surface of the post is covered with a material similar to those for which the cat has shown a preference. Some scratching posts are even designed to be wall mounted or hung on doors. Placing additional scratching posts in strategic areas may also be helpful for some cats. Keeping the cat's nails properly trimmed or using plastic nail covers ( Soft Paws ), are also useful techniques for some owners.

How do I punish my cat for inappropriate scratching?

 All forms of physical punishment should be avoided since they can cause fear or aggression toward the owners, and at best, the cat will only learn to stop the scratching while the owner is around. Indirect, non-physical forms of punishment may be useful if the owner can remain out of sight while administering the punishment. In this way, the cat may learn that scratching is unpleasant even when the owner is not present. Long-range water rifles, ultrasonic or audible alarms, or remote control operated devices are sometimes useful.

Generally, the best deterrents are those that train the pet not to scratch, even in the owner's absence. If the surface or area can be made less appealing or unpleasant, the cat will likely seek out a new area or target for scratching, which will hopefully be its scratching post. The simplest approach is to cover the scratched surface with a less appealing material (plastic, a loosely draped piece of material, or double-sided tape). Another effective deterrent is to booby trap the problem areas so that either scratching or approaching the area is unpleasant for the cat (e.g. motion detectors or a stack of plastic cups that is set to topple when the cat scratches). Of course, neither remote punishment nor booby traps will successfully deter inappropriate scratching, unless the cat has an alternative scratching area that is comfortable, appealing, well-located, and free of all deterrents.

When should declawing be considered?

 Declawing is a drastic, but permanent solution for scratching problems, but for most households, the scratching post and deterrent techniques discussed previously are generally quite successful. There are some homes however, where declawing may be the only option if the pet is to be kept in the home. This might be the case where the cat continues to damage the furniture, or where the cat causes injuries to people during play or handling. Even the slightest scratch can have serious consequences (cat scratch fever) when a member of the household suffers from a severely debilitating disease. In some cases, the issue comes down to whether the owner should be able to keep their cat and have it declawed, or whether it should be removed from the home.

What is the effect of declawing on the cat?

 Many authors have written of dire behavioral and surgical complications of declawing, but these reports are based on myths and anecdotes. In the past few years, a number of veterinary behaviorists and pet psychologists have studied the effects of declawing on the cat, the owner, and the cat-owner relationship. Some 10 scientific studies have examined the consequences of declawing on the pet and on the pet-owner relationship. These studies show that declawing does not alter the cat's behavior. In fact, cats may continue to scratch furniture after declawing, but cause no damage. There is no increase in behavior problems. We only recommend declawing cats that are going to remain indoors, so they are not at greater risk of getting bitten or injured in catfights. Owners of declawed cats report a higher number of good behaviors than the owners of clawed cats. Except for a few days of surgical discomfort, quite surprisingly, the only owner concerns have been that some cats were reluctant to use the litter box when litter was replaced with paper strips. (Most veterinarians recommend replacing sandy or clay type litter with strips of paper for the first few days following declawing). This problem has now been greatly reduced by using recycled newspaper litter ( Yesterday's News ) following declawing.

When owners of declawed cats are asked to assess the effects of declawing on the cat- owner relationship, declawing always met or surpassed their expectations, and over 70% indicated an improvement in their relationship with their cat. Declawing allows people to keep their cat and stop household damage. Normally, the front claws are all that need to be removed to prevent furniture damage.

Laser Declawing- The Cutting Edge of Veterinary Medicine: A better and humane way to declaw cats is now available at Animal Care Unlimited ! This is LASER declawing. This is a procedure that involves a laser that replaces the previously used blade. The advantages of using laser is that there is significantly less pain following surgery, since vaporized small nerve endings are sealed and do not initiate the pain sensors, which was never possible with a blade. The laser also cauterizes all blood vessels and so there is less blood loss and less post-operative swelling. We no longer need to use tourniquets or bandage materials, and the cats are up and playing immediately after surgery. If your decision is to declaw your cat, it is better to use laser surgery…your cat will thank you!

10 Commandments For Pet Ownership

1. My life is likely to last 10 to 15 years. Any separation from you will be painful.

2. Give me time to understand what you want of me.

3. Place your trust in me; it is crucial for my well being.

4. Don't be angry with me for long and don't lock me up as punishment. You have your friends, your entertainment. I have only YOU!

5. Talk to me. Even if I don't understand your words, I understand your voice.

6. Be aware that however you treat me, I'll never forget it.

7. Before you hit me, remember that I have teeth that could easily crush the bones in your hand, but I choose not to bite you!

8. Before you scold me for being lazy or uncooperative, ask yourself whether something might be bothering me. Perhaps I'm not getting the right food, I've been out in the sun too long, or my heart may be getting old and weak.

9. Take care of me when I get old. You, too, will grow old!

10. Go with me on difficult journeys. Never say, "I can't bear to watch it" or, "Let it happen in my absence."

Selecting a Humane Obedience Trainer

??Look for a trainer who relies on positive reinforcement for the right response rather than punishing the wrong response

??Observe an obedience class without your dog. Ask questions and talk to participants about the trainer's methods. If you are not allowed to sit in, do not enroll in that class!

?? Never leave your dog with a trainer overnight! Avoid trainers that take your dog for a week and "train'. Don't allow a trainer to work your dog unless they first tell you exactly what they plan to do.

??Avoid trainers who offer guarantees for specific results. Such a trainer either ignores or fails to understand the complexity of animal behavior.

??Avoid a trainer who objects to using food as a training reward. Food is an acceptable positive-reinforcement training tool.

??Avoid trainers who use choke chains! These are not humane!

??Avoid trainers who use electric (shock) collars as a first line of training. Shock collars are only appropriate for very few behavior cases, and as a last resort!

??Look for a trainer that treats both humans and animals with respect.

??Ask for references and referral sources. Also ask what professional organizations the trainer participates with (ABS, AVSAB, NADOI, or APDT).

If you have any questions, or need help finding a reliable and humane trainer, ask Animal Care Unlimited for information. We have evaluated the credentials and competence of our training referrals.

* Items in this list are modified from those developed by S. Hetts, and the American Humane Association.