AVIAN CARE |
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Birds are not born with an understanding of how to fit into a human family. Many things that are natural behaviors in parrots in the wild, and even essential to their survival, are not considered appropriate behavior in our eyes. Often misbehavior is the result of misunderstandings between the owner and the bird, or of unrealistic expectations the owner has about how the bird should behave. All parrots will sometimes bite, scream, and chew and destroy things. The bird doesn't know these things are "bad" and needs to be taught what is expected in order for both owner and bird to be happy together. A better understanding of how your parrot thinks and reacts to the world around it will help to forge a better relationship for both of you, and will help you enjoy your parrot to the fullest. BIRDY BASICS: From the beginning, it is important to set boundaries with your parrot. Even though he may be young and cuddly now, the day will come when he will reach sexual maturity (the "teen-age years" of a bird's life) and suddenly start to challenge your authority with his very sharp beak! This is a natural phase that ALL parrots will go through. A little behavioral ground work with your baby now, while he is young and impressionable, will save you a lot of blood loss later when his hormones are raging. DON'T LET YOUR BIRD SIT ON SHOULDERS – this puts the bird in a position of perceived authority (since he is higher than you) where it is difficult for you to control him, and where he thinks he is in charge. Also, it puts him in a position to severely lacerate your face if he gets the urge. Once you have let a bird sit on shoulders, it can be very hard to convince him not to run up your arm whenever he wants – it is simpler just to never allow it. KEEP THE BIRD LOWER THAN YOUR HEAD, ideally at chest level, when you reach to pick him up and when you are holding him. This again puts you, not the bird, higher and therefore in a position of authority, and greatly increases cooperation and reduces aggressive behavior. Hold your arm with your hand higher than your elbow to discourage climbing up your arm. Place the cage so you do not have to reach up to get the bird, or stand on a stool. Sometimes simply lowering the cage of an aggressive bird can greatly reduce or eliminate biting completely! KEEP THE WINGS TRIMMED – not only for your bird's safety, but also to make the bird feel more dependent on you to take him places, such as to a favorite play area, and to create boundaries as to where he is allowed to go when he is out of his cage. Also, the bird won't be able to fly away and ignore you if he doesn't feel like listening to you or stepping up on your hand when you ask. TEACH / ENFORCE BASIC COMMANDS such as "step up" from an early age. If stepping up has been taught until it is a reflex response, then it can be used to control even a bird in the midst of a hormonal rage. Practicing step-ups on a regular basis also reinforces the fact that you are the one in charge. You can require the bird to step up to exit or return to the cage, or to get a favorite treat, which further emphasizes your authority. ( NOTE – realize that when a bird is first learning to step up, it is natural that he will test the stability of a perch (in this case, your hand) with his beak before stepping onto it, and that he is NOT trying to bite. Pulling your hand away because you mistake this for biting can quickly reduce the bird's trust in you, as well as teach him HOW to bite by making him want to grab more firmly next time!) AVOID A SPOILED BABY: Remember that the cute little baby is going to grow up, and now is the time to prepare him to deal comfortably with the world in every way possible. At a young age, a parrot's mind is still developing, and he needs your guidance more than ever to help him grow into a well-adjusted adult pet. EXPOSE HIM TO NEW THINGS now so he will be more accepting of change as an adult. Get him used to a wide variety of different people, foods, toys, and environments. He will be more likely to eat a varied, nutritious diet this way, and will be less likely to be stressed out if you go on vacation, or if he has to stay at a friend's or at the vet. Playing games with towels, such as "peek-a-boo," at home, also will make being restrained in a towel at the groomer, or the vet less stressful. LEAVE HIM ALONE – resist the temptation to hold a cuddly new baby whenever he wants attention or to run to the cage whenever he cries. This will create a spoiled adult who expects constant interaction and who will scream or misbehave to get it. When the baby bird calls to you, sometimes merely offer a reassuring word from across the room and allow the baby to learn to entertain himself. A young bird needs to learn how to play quietly on a play-stand or in his cage when you are around but are too busy for more "hands-on" attention. WORKING WITH YOUR BIRD : Punishing misbehavior in parrots in the traditional fashion almost never works. For one thing, parrots don't seem to understand negative reinforcement the way a dog might and may just become frightened or phobic. Also, many things we consider to be punishment are not perceived as so by the bird. Parrots LOVE loud noises and dramatic displays, and so the owner running into the room and yelling in response to something the bird has done is in fact a great reward to the bird! It is much more effective to ignore negative behaviors and reward and reinforce good behavior. Parrots crave attention and interaction with their human "flock" and so will quickly learn the behaviors that result in increased attention from their human. If simply ignoring a misbehaving parrot is not enough, a "time out" can be used by covering the cage or placing the bird in a far-away room, but 5-10 minutes should be the maximum. CHEWING: It is natural for all parrots to chew on EVERYTHING. Set up the environment so the bird has every opportunity to be good and no chance to be bad. Don't let the bird wander around on the floor at will or fly loose in the house, and then be surprised when he chews up your belongings. A wing-trimmed bird that has been trained to stay on top of his cage or on a playpen is simply not able to destroy his owner's prized possessions. Also, provide lots and lots of acceptable chew toys as an outlet for this basic psittacine need. BITING: If the bird is sitting on your hand, you can correct biting by a quick wobble of the hand (not so much that the bird falls, but throw him slightly off balance) – if the bird thinks a minor "earthquake" occurs whenever he bites you, he will soon stop this behavior. DON'T grab or flick the bird's beak as this will most likely just provoke further aggression. Also, look to see if something you have done or something in the environment has provoked the bird, or if the bird had an understandable reason for biting. Difficult as it may be to avoid, withdrawing your hand when a bird bites only encourages the behavior by teaching the bird he can make your hand go away. If you can convince the bird that the first bite doesn't affect you, he will probably not try again. Other tips include: move slowly around your bird and don't gesture a lot with your hands or startle him. Learn to read your parrot's body language and recognize and respect his moods. If he is crabby and doesn't want to cuddle or be petted, or is in the midst of an aggressive sexual display, don't force the issue. Parrots are highly intelligent and emotional creatures and can have a bad day just like people. Do not expect him to submit to you the way a domesticated dog might, but rather recognize him as a wild animal, and feel honored when he chooses to do as we ask. SCREAMING: Screaming is a natural parrot behavior that CANNOT be completely extinguished. Parrots instinctively call to their flock at dawn and dusk, and vocal exuberance at these times is to be expected. Problem screaming develops when the behavior is inadvertently reinforced – by yelling at the bird, or picking him up or offering a treat to get him to be quiet. It doesn't take long for the bird to train the owner to give him attention whenever he screams! If your bird screams as a "contact call" when you are in another room, try to replace this with a quieter whistle or "hello." If you answer the quiet call but ignore screams, the bird will quickly catch on. Also, make sure the bird is not housed in an isolated area of the home, but is allowed to be an integral part of the family. A REMINDER: To help prevent potential behavior problems, always make sure the bird's basic needs are being met – freedom from disease, ensured by annual check-ups by a qualified avian veterinarian and prompt attention to any abnormal symptoms, proper diet with a wide selection of nutritious, interesting foods (i.e., NOT mainly seeds), opportunities for frequent bathing to maintain healthy feathers, and exercise to work off excess energy, a constantly changing variety of stimulating toys to keep the bird busy and to exercise his need to chew, a period of one-on-one interaction with the owner daily, even if only for 10-15 minutes, full spectrum lighting to approximate the natural environment and stimulate natural behavior patterns, and a quiet, dark environment for 10-12 hours of uninterrupted sleep every night. It is always much easier, if possible, to prevent behavior problems before they have a chance to occur by creating a happy, healthy, satisfied, and well-adjusted bird. Finally, PLEASE - If you do find that your bird has developed a behavior problem that has grown beyond your ability to deal with the situation on your own, please don't give up, but seek the help of a professional avian behaviorist or your avian veterinarian. There can often be resolutions to even the most difficult problems if you are willing to spend the time to work through them with a professional. Further Recommended Reading on Parrot Behavior: "The Pet Bird Report" magazine by Sally Blanchard (see www.petbirdreport.com online) Guide to a Well Behaved Parrot , by Mattie Sue Athan, (Barron's Ed. Series, 1993) My Parrot, My Friend , by Bonnie Munro Doane, (Howell Book House, 1994) The Importance of Laboratory Testing for Caged and Aviary Birds Birds are unique in the way they respond to and exhibit their illnesses. You, as a bird owner, must appreciate this fact if you are to recognize illness in your birds and respond promptly to their needs. All animals have limited ability to physiologically compensate for one or more medical problems, involving one or more organ systems. When the animal can no longer compensate, obvious signs of illness are expressed. The term for the period during which an animal is sick but does not show obvious signs of disease is sub-clinical illness. Caged birds seem to have an even greater compensatory ability, and sub-clinical illness is common in birds. Birds, in fact, appear to "hide" signs of illness. This is actually a preservation response, rather than a deliberate or conscious act. This preservation response is, no doubt, an evolutionary adaptation. Many birds are flock dwellers, with social hierarchies (pecking orders). Any individual struggling to maintain its position in this hierarchy tends to be eliminated from the group. This tendency for members of the same species to harass weaker members of the group eliminates the weaker members' genes from the gene pool, thereby strengthening the species' chance for survival. In spite of the benefits for the group, it behooves the individual to look healthy, for as long as possible, to avoid this harassment. Animal behaviorists believe that the evolutionary establishment of communal groups (flocks, herds, etc.) resulted from the increased survival of individuals (more eyes and ears to detect predators and other life-threatening situations). Predation often eliminates the weakest members (very young, old or weak) of the group. Again, it behooves the individual to stay as healthy as possible, for as long as possible, to avoid attracting predators to the group and predation on itself. Diagnostic Laboratories Sub-clinical illness in caged birds makes diagnosis of the disease difficult. Consequently, the avian veterinarian must rely heavily on diagnostic laboratories to provide tests that can aid in the diagnosis and treatment of disease, as well as help monitor the medical course of the avian patient. Bacterial and fungal diseases can be diagnosed in a microbiology laboratory, and the proper and most effective anti-microbial drugs (antibiotics, etc) to begin treating these diseases can be determined. Collection and Analysis of Blood Blood samples may be obtained from the avian patient in a number of ways. The least stressful and easiest method involves clipping one or more toenails and allowing the blood to flow freely into tiny capillary tubes that contain an anti-coagulant. Blood smears are made from a single drop of blood placed on a microscope slide or cover slip. Blood can also be withdrawn from the jugular or a peripheral vein using a syringe equipped with a very small needle. This latter method is often dealing with the smaller caged birds (budgies, canaries, finches, etc.) and may be necessary if a relatively large blood sample is required. Only very small volumes of blood are required by the laboratory. Therefore, there is no caged bird that cannot be examined in this manner. Chemical cautery agents are used to stop the nail from bleeding, and finger pressure is used to prevent excessive bleeding when blood is withdrawn from a vein using a needle and syringe. The blood sample can be examined in 2 different ways. Analysis of the cellular portion of the blood yields red and white blood cell counts. These are useful in diagnosing anemia and determining whether a patient is experiencing enough of an insult to its system to cause changes in the circulating white blood cells. These changes either influence the total number of white blood cells circulating in the peripheral blood or the proportions of the 5 different types of avian white blood cells, or both. Blood smears can be stained and examined for the presence of blood parasites and to obtain information about all the blood's cellular components. The fluid portion of the blood (plasma) is also examined (blood chemistry evaluation) and yields information about the biochemical status of the patient and the integrity of the patient's vital organs (liver, kidneys, etc.). This information provides the clinician with specific diagnoses, such as diabetes and gout. In other cases, biochemical profiling of the blood indicates the organ systems involved and the severity of the disease. Blood workups provide information that enables the avian veterinarian to understand the severity of the patient's condition, to know the extent of the disease, and to follow the patient's clinical course with successive blood samples. Serial laboratory testing enables the clinician to follow the patient's progress and make changes in treatment much more rapidly than would otherwise be possible by simply monitoring the patient's visible response (or lack of response) to treatment. Urinalysis Examination of urine from the avian patient presents some obvious problems (collection of a large enough volume to analyze, separation of it from the portion of the droppings, etc.), but urine samples have significant diagnostic value. The urine's physical (color, clarity, specific gravity, pH, etc.) and biological (presence of protein, glucose, blood, etc.) properties are analyzed. The urine sample is centrifuged and the sediment is examined for its cellular content (white and red blood cells, lining cells of the urinary system, etc.), crystals, and microorganisms (bacteria, parasites, etc.). Examination of Body Fluids and Tissues A clinical pathology laboratory also enables the veterinarian to examine and analyze various body fluids and cells that may be present in a particular tissue. Fluids may be aspirated by syringe from body cavities and cysts, and studied in the same manner as a urine sample. Microscopically examining the cellular portion of the sample is called cytologic analysis. Pressing a microscope slide against particular surface results in the deposition of some of its cells on the slide's surface. Such impression smears can be obtained from tissue masses (lumps, etc.), abscesses, wounds, etc. Cytologic and fluid analyses are vital diagnostic tools in avian medicine. Bacterial Culture and Anti-microbial Sensitivity Testing Aerobic infectious diseases are the most common cause of illness in caged and aviary birds, the microbiology laboratory plays a vital diagnostic role for the avian veterinarian. Samples collected from the patient may yield pathogenic (disease-causing) bacteria. The major function of the microbiology laboratory is to identify these microorganisms so that appropriate treatment can be initiated. Once one or more bacterial isolates from a specimen have been identified, the next step is to conduct microbial sensitivity testing. Drug-impregnated discs are placed in contact with colonies of each previously identified microbial isolate. The effectiveness of each anti-microbial is determined by measuring the area around each disc in which the growth of the organisms have been completely inhibited. Generally speaking, the larger the zone, the more effective the anti-microbial. It is from these "effective" anti-microbials, then, that the veterinarian selects a drug with which to treat the patient. This type of anti-microbial testing is not used with fungal isolates. The Gram Stain Another effective tool available to the avian veterinarian is the Gram stain. Various specimens (feces, discharges, pus, etc.) from the patient can be Gram stained and examined microscopically. Such a preparation yields a surprisingly large amount of information: whether or not bacteria and yeasts are present in the sample; the relative numbers of organisms present; their shape and relative size; and their Gram stain reaction (Gram-negative bacteria appear light red or pink and are generally considered the major disease-causing bacteria among caged birds; Gram-positive bacteria appear dark blue or violet and make up most of the normal gastrointestinal and respiratory tract micro-flora of caged birds). Just knowing this information aids in the tentative identification of the bacteria present. An actual culture would be necessary to make a positive identification. The advantage of the Gram stain is that it represents a relatively inexpensive method of determining the microbiologic status of a patient. More important, it provides a convenient method for monitoring a patient's progress during and after antibiotic therapy. Parasite Identification The methods employed to diagnose parasitic problems in birds are simpler than the laboratory methods previously described. As previously stated, blood parasites may be noted upon examination of stained blood smears. External parasites (biting lice are the most common) either have a superficial location (on or within the feathers) or they may be buried within the top layers of the skin (scaly-face mange in parakeets). Careful visual inspection and skin scrapings (microscopic examination of scraped debris) are required to diagnose scaly-face mange. Intestinal parasites are rarely detected by bird owners. Occasionally, a caged bird will pass entire worms or parts of worms (roundworms, tapeworms, etc.) in the droppings. Sometimes these parasites are seen hanging from the bird's vent. Most often, however, microscopic examination of droppings is necessary to diagnose intestinal parasitism. Fecal flotation's (to detect parasite eggs) and direct smears (fresh feces mixed with saline and examined immediately) are the 2 most common methods. Miscellaneous Laboratory Tests Samples for certain special tests must be submitted to other laboratories for analyses. Diagnosis of lead poisoning (a common intoxication of caged birds) requires a specific analysis of the patient's blood. Diagnosis of chlamydiosis ("parrot fever") requires submission of feces (or cloacal swabs) or tissue samples to the State laboratory for very specific testing procedures. Blood samples can be submitted to other laboratories for serologic analyses (detection of antibodies to certain disease agents, such as chlamydiosis).
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